West of Brugge in the North West region of Flanders you'll find Oostende (Ostend.) A popular tourist destination with sandy beaches, promenade, marina and fish market. The old town is roughly only 1km square which makes for a compact and vibrant place filled with restaurants, bars, cafes and a wide selection of shops. The chocolate shop windows are an artwork of tempting decadence and the patisserie shops are beyond words. The glazed tarts and intricate gateaux draw you in like a magpie to a shiny thing; then once at the door your senses are enveloped with the sweet pastry and fruit aromas of patisserie heaven.
To the South of the town, not far from the station, sits a grand Neo-Gothic Cathedral which proudly chimes its bells for all to hear on a Sunday morning.
Oostende also has plenty to see for those interested in history, including Napoleon's Fort. Time didn't allow for me to explore much of the historical side to the town nor it's curious link to the artist Marvin Gaye, however I did make time to explore some of it's bars!
Strolling along Langestraat towards the casino you will come across Manuscript, this was my favourite location in town. The interior is rustic and simple with weathered wooden floors and a jazz cafe flavour, a proper brown cafe. You could just describe it as cool! Neatly presented on a large blackboard are a good selection of bottled beers, including house beers, Trappists, darks, ambers, blondes & saisons. By day the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly and in the evening it heaved with popularity. Many a local seemed to be drinking the PoppoLou so we thought we better give it a try and boy were we not disappointed . I opted for the 'extra hoppy,' an unfiltered yellowish blonde beer with a refreshing cascade hop kick. Brewed for Manuscript, this North Sea Belgian beer incorporates brewing salts to give a brief and subtle salt aftertaste. Compliment this with the hop character of the cascade, the secondary bottle fermentation and you are left with a very fine and slightly dry bitter that leaves you wanting more. I thought it wise to bring some home!
Other watering holes which are certainly worth a mention for their character and individuality are Lafayette (opposite Manuscript) and 't Kroegske. Lafayette is situated within the popular area of town and, much like Manuscript, heaves on a weekend evening. Kroegske is a very unique and very reasonably priced bar at the opposite end of town (Sint-Paulusstraat 80) to all the hustle and bustle of Langestraat. Once you've climbed down several stairs you pretty much realise there is nowhere else to go. The bar is tiny and I loved it. Much like our beloved Red Lion you were compelled to talk to people and enjoy the art of conversation. I guess it will be the type of bar you either love or hate but I guarantee you won't find another like it in Oostende.
Before departing home any discerning beer lover must visit 't Koelschip. This split level and beautifully presented beer shop will leave your mouth watering. There is a beer here for everyone and you could lose a whole day just looking at them all. I opted to bring home some Trappist beers I had enjoyed over the weekend and also a 12%, 6 month single cask matured beer which I stumbled upon after chatting with the shop owner.
It was my understanding that the brew, Harlekijn, is brewed by Koelschip's owner. As yet I haven't tried the beer but look forward to tucking into it!
Well that's the best beer spots pretty much covered. It's also worth looking out for locally produced Keyte beer. Both the blonde and dark were excellent and widely available throughout the town.
Of other must try eateries, in my opinion, Koekoek is top of the list. In essence it's just a chicken bar; you grab a seat, order a drink and chicken then moments later just tuck in! It's simple, tasty fayre. There's no fuss, no fancy garnish and no forks! Man food at its best, pick up the meat and suck it off the bone. The seasoning is almost addictive and you can smell the roasted chickens from streets away. If you're looking for fine dining you won't find it in Koekoek but if you're after a beer and the most succulent half chicken you could ever imagine, I'd say this place is for you.
So... Holiday over and back to the Red, hopefully it won't be another 7 years until I get away again and hopefully my next beer journey will be just as good.
Thanks for reading my holiday weekend and look forward to seeing you soon.
Cheers, Richard